Tiny
TELEGRAPH COVE
, 8km south of Port McNeill and reached by a rough side road, is an immensely likeable place and the best of BC's so-called "boardwalk villages": the whole community is raised on wooden stilts over the water, a sight that's becoming ever more popular with tourists. It was built as the terminus of a tree-strung telegraph line from Victoria, and it comes as a surprise to discover that its character is threatened by plans for a massive waterfront development of houses, lodge and restaurant. Some development has already taken place - added moorings, a pub and restaurant - but so far without adversely affecting the village's character. As an added bonus, the village has become one of the island's premier
whale-watching
spots, the main attraction here being the pods of orcas (killer whales) that calve locally. Some nineteen of these families live or visit Robson Bight, 20km down the Johnstone Strait, which was established as an ecological reserve in 1982 (the whales like the gravel beaches, where they come to rub). This is the world's most accessible and predictable spot to see the creatures - around a ninety percent chance in season. The best outfit for a trip to see them is Stubbs Island Charters at the dock at the end of the boardwalk through the old village (tel 928-3185, 928-3117 or 1-800/665-3066). The first whale-watching company in BC, they run up to five three- or five-hour trips daily (June-Oct), but they're very popular, so call well in advance to be sure of a place.
In summer you can buy food at a small café, but otherwise the only provision for visitors is an incongruous new building with shop, ice-cream counter and coffee bar. The only
accommodation
is the large wooded
Telegraph Cove Resorts
(tel 928-3131 or 1-800/200-4665; $175-240, camping $15-23; March-Dec), a short walk from the village and one of the best-located places on Vancouver Island, a reputation that makes reservations essential in summer. It has 19 rooms and 121 RV/tent sites with showers, laundry, restaurant, boat rentals and access to guides, charters and whale-watching tours. The
Hidden Cove Lodge
(tel 956-3916,
hidcl@island.net
; $125-175; May-Nov) at Lewis Point, a sec-luded cove on Johnstone Strait 7km from Telegraph Cove, has eight superb lodge units, but they go very quickly. The big
Alder Bay Campsite
6km off Hwy 19 en route for Telegraph Cove from Port McNeill provides grassy tent sites with ocean views (tel 956-4117; reservations recommended; $16-26; May-Sept).
