ANTRIM
is a largely undistinguished town whose centre demonstrates all the typical decay that follows the construction of out-of-town shopping developments. Although its population has trebled since the 1970s, it doesn't feel especially fecund with possibilities. If you've time to kill, there's a tenth-century
round tower
in Steeple Park, a mile north of town, indicating the site of an important monastery that flourished between the sixth and twelfth centuries; and a pretty, if unremarkable, eighteenth-century cottage,
Pogue's Entry
on Church St (call 028/9442 8000 for times), the preserved childhood home of Alexander Irvine, author of
My Lady of the Chimney Corner
which recalled his boyhood years before the famine. The tiny
tourist office
nearby at 16 High St (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; July & Aug Thurs & Fri until 6pm & also Sat 9am-5pm; April, June & Sept also Sat 9am-2pm; tel 028/9442 8331) will let you in. If you pop through the Castle Gate on Dublin Road, you'll find yourself in the pleasant gardens of the old
Antrim Castle
. The building itself was totally destroyed by fire in 1922, but the carriage house and stables now house the
Clotworthy Art Centre
(Mon-Fri 9.30am-9.30pm, Sat 10am-5pm; July & Aug also Sun 2-5pm; free), which is worth a look for its galleries of work by local artists and occasional international exhibitions.
Belfast International Airport is just four miles south of Antrim, but luckily this doesn't mean that you have to stick around - the transport links to Belfast are much better than to Antrim. There's
camping
on the shore of Lough Neagh at
Sixmilewater Marina & Caravan Park
(May-Sept; tel 028/9446 4131), plus daily cruises on the waters. If you've time for a pint,
Madden's
on the High Street is Antrim's liveliest
bar
, while hunger can be satisfied both here and at the wood-beamed
Top of the Town
, Fountain Street, which also has a pleasant beer garden.
West of Antrim, Lough Neagh's northern shores are easily accessible by taking the road from
Randalstown
to
Creeve
. From here a minor road leads down to Churchtown Point and the Lough. The ruins of an ancient Irish church are here and close by is a still-extant
holy well
. This was formerly the site of an annual pilgrimage on May 1 which involved walking barefoot thirteen times around both church and well before drinking the waters and then bathing in them. The Lough's waters are rich in
eels
here and, if you're lucky, you might find a fisherman willing to sell you a few before he takes his catch off to the processing plant at Toomebridge. If not, nearby
Cranfield Inn
serves eel suppers and also runs an equestrian centre (tel 028/9447 2342). Back in Creeve, the
Creeve House Country Inn
, 115 Staffordstown Rd (tel 028/9447 2547; b) is a friendly
pub
and
guesthouse
and an ideal base for soaking up the atmosphere of this tranquil spot.
