Shortly after rounding Thaba Moorosi, the main road leaves the Senqu River, and heads swiftly into the Highlands through the impressive
Quthing Gorge
, peaking after about 10km at the
Lebelonyane Pass
(2456m), with superb views. The road carries on through a series of attractive high-altitude valleys, before reaching the small village of
MPHAKI
, which has excellent accommodation at the Farmers' Training Centre (R100-150), which offers well-equipped self-catering rondavels and a pleasant guesthouse. If you don't fancy self-catering, the
Motsekuoa Liquor Restaurant
opposite the centre provides inexpensive and tasty Sotho
food
as well as a good bar.
The tarred road continues for another 10km out of Mphaki, where it reverts to decent gravel. You'll find some
San caves
a short hike off the road a few kilometres further on at
Seforong
, just before
Sekake
, though - unusually - they don't have rock paintings. At Sekake you can
camp
or
stay
at the atmospheric Christian Council of Churches Mission, a kilometre or so along a rocky track that leaves the main road at the
Hotline Restaurant
.